Since applying the two layers of plywood sheathing to the front and top there has been a lot of fussy work without much visual progress. We ran the plywood sides long knowing that we would need to fill in the gap between the plywood top and the sides.
This is because the overall width of the trailer is 64-1/2", and the plywood is only 60". The laminated oak ribs on the outside are full profile, with the plywood running between them, as shown in the detail section below.
Given the minor variability between the full-profile outer rib and the smaller interior rib to which the top plywood mounts, a need was created to use Bondo to smooth out and fill the gaps forward of the hatch.
So the recent days have involved adding Bondo, sanding, and repeating to get the profile correct. Once the exterior rib and plywood top were properly adjusted by this process, we trimmed the plywood exterior side wall to a point one inch in from the plywood surface.
That trimming created some minor issues, so today those minor spots were again covered with Bondo.
Friday (I am out of town tomorrow) those spots will be sanded. Then the two exterior ribs in the area of the hatch need to be filled/adjusted in spots before the plywood side walls are trimmed to the correct profile.
Once those tasks are complete, we will see the true profile of the trailer, and we will be able to proceed with covering the entire trailer body with Filon.
To review, the front/top contour is covered with two layers of 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood. Last post had the second sheet of the first layer installed. The next day we installed the first sheet of the second layer, then the day after that finished the first layer and added the next two pieces of the second layer.
Thus the plywood covering is complete.
Today I sanded down the high spots and made sure the plywood contours were true. I started applying Bondo filler between the plywood surface and the outer edge, since the laminated oak ribs at the outside are generally lower than the plywood sheathing. I will fair the Bondo to the plywood countour, then trim the sides with a router to that contour.
Once all that is accomplished, we will be ready to begin applying the Filon covering.
Today was a scheduled off-day for the teardrop, so I took advantage and drove up to Parker River National Wildlife Refuge on Plum Island in Massachusetts. My wife Sam and I have been there a couple of times in November, but I wanted to see the bird life in summer.
Was I rewarded!
I saw, as I recall, Dunlin, Least Sandpiper, Lesser Yellowlegs, Greater Yellowlegs, Eastern Kingbird, Bobolink, Tree Swallow, Great Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Cedar Waxwing, Saltmarsh Sharptail Sparrow, Killdeer, Semi-Palmated Sandpiper, White-Rumped Sandpiper (I believe, awaiting confirmation of identification) (turns out to have been a transitional Sanderling), several unidentified Terns (I am not able to identify Terns), and unidentified Flycatcher, and Wild Turkey, not to mention the ubiquitous Redwing Blackbirds, Canada Geese, and three unidentified ducks.
And, since I only drove in about half way before turning around, there were probably more species to be seen. Needless to say, the area supports a great variety of bird life.
Photos: Let us begin and proceed alphabetically.
Cedar Waxwing:
Eastern Kingbird:
Greater Yellowlegs:
Lesser Yellowlegs:
Least Sandpiper (okay, the astute reader will recognize that I violated my promise of alphabetical order, but I wanted to juxtapose the Greater and Lesser above for contrast. Note the size of the beak in relation to the head for the distinction.)
Snowy Egret:
Wild Turkey:
Finally, a shot of some of the wildflowers in the area:
In all, it was quite a day!
Yesterday we added the second piece of the first layer of the teardrop front/top. We are only managing one piece per day because of the time required to properly fit each piece, mark the nailing areas and nailing exclusions (where wires are present), then glue, install and staple. On both of the first two pieces we've been working out technique as well; each is different.
The second layer should be easier, but we'll see. Meanwhile, here's a shot with the first two pieces of the first layer installed.
What is not seen here is that the second piece stops short of the hatch by a couple feet. A third, short piece will be required for both layers.
Because the afternoons have been extremely warm and very humid, making working conditions somewhat less than ideal, I have not been out to photograph birds lately, instead devoting mornings to working on the Teardrop.
It was very stormy this morning, so I took a spin. The only birds I found to shoot were these Tree Swallows. There is a reason they are known as Tree Swallows. As you can see, by the time I got to them there was a break in the weather.
I then went to a local cemetery known for three different orchids that bloom there. The first one up is platanthera ciliaris, also known as the "Yellow Fringed Orchid" and affectionately as the "Cheese Whiz Orchid."
Here is a contextual shot:
And, some individual blooms:
Yes, this was included in a post last year, but it is such an appealing plant it bears a re-viewing.
Today we installed the first piece of 1/8" Baltic birch plywood on the front/top of the trailer. It involved some discussion and experimentation as to methods, fitting, marking, etc., making it adequate for a day's work.
Tomorrow we will fit the next top piece which includes cutting the hole for the fan curb, install it, and potentially fit the next piece to the front.
As you probably know by now, the sidewall construction of the teardrop is a sandwich of poplar stringers and two layers of 3/4" rigid foam insulation between inner and outer layers of 1/4" Baltic birch plywood. The original wall build left the outer layer of plywood off so we could run wiring through the walls.
Today, we finally added that outer layer. The first photo is of the first piece attached.
First we spread glue on the mating side everywhere it would make contact with the trailer structure. We then used a pneumatic stapler to attach the plywood to the structure. Note the pencil marks that served as guides. The darker blocks (crosshatches) indicated areas to not staple because wires run behind. Note that the door and window openings were only rough cut and will be trimmed with a router. Likewise, the top profile is rough cut. Once the plywood is installed on the front and top the sides will be trimmed to match the actual installed roof.
Port side complete:
Starboard side complete:
The next step is to cover the top in two layers of 1/8" Baltic birch plywood. While the inside of the front/roof has only a single layer, we opted for two layers externally to better resist any potential impact and provide a better foundation for the covering.
While there isn't any visual progress to show, we have been diligently fitting the outer layers of insulation - including the entire front/top - and rough-fitting the plywood sides.
Fitting the sides not only entails cutting to rough shape, but marking the insides as to where to apply glue, and the outsides where to nail and where to avoid nailing (given the wiring through the sides.)
The plywood for both sides is fit and marked. The front/top is all insulated except for three bays that contain electrical and require special attention. The starboard side outer layer of insulation is all fit. What remains is to fit the port side outer layer and those three panels on top.
After that, we can attach the plywood sides and begin fitting the plywood front/top. Before we fit the front/top we will have to remove the hatch.
The temperature has broken somewhat, but I still produced an extraordinary amount of perspiration today. The next few days are supposed to be better, but then it gets hot again.
Yee haw!
There is a lot of ground to cover in this post, as things are coming together rapidly.
First, Sean energized the electrical system using standard jumper cables to his lawn tractor. Since the battery box on the tongue of the trailer has to be off in order to put the covering on the front, he has not permanently connected the two golf cart batteries that will eventually be in place.
Here is the Xantrex switch and AC meter/breaker panel with the sytem hot:
Note that you can see the jumper cables in the lower right corner. In this condition, the DC battery is connected, the Xantrex is on, and AC current is present.
Here is a closeup of the meter/breaker panel:
All three AC outlets were tested and were live.
Again in this condition the entire DC system is also energized. Here are some of the DC components:
First, LED lamps mounted on the ceiling inside the cabin:
Two of these are positioned slightly forward and provide illumination of the entire cabin.
Next is the directable fan mounted on the starboard wall just in front of the cabinets:
Even though the cabin has a roof vent fan that can either exhaust or intake, I wanted this fan to direct air anywhere inside the cabin. The gimbal mount enables this.
Finally, the under-hatch lights:
These two "work lights" are mounted overhead when the hatch is open and aimed at the counter. With a 120 degree angle of dispersion, they will illuminate the entire area.
Sean has also finalized the plumbing, as I mentioned in an earlier post. Here are some photos to elaborate. First, an overall view of the sink and water cabinet:
Detail under the sink:
In the rear of this photo is the water tank. The pipe leading to the right and ending in the black component is the fill tube. I will use a funnel or a hose to fill the tank. The black component is a stack vent, designed to be used in plumbing systems where a stack cannot be run through the roof. The function of the stack vent is to allow air to pass one way. In this case, it will allow air into the tank as water is pumped out.
On the left is the filter for the Moen faucet. The drain drops into a pail which I can empty as needed. As very little water will actually drain through, and there was no space to add a holding tank, this solution will be perfectly adequate. The clear plastic hose at the lower left connects to a drain outlet from the water tank that will permit draining almost all the water from the tank.
This view, inside the cooler cabinet, is of the on-demand water pump and upstream screen. The tube at the lower left connects to the outflow of the water tank. Water passes through the screen as insurance for the pump. The outflow of the pump is at the right and passes back into the sink/tank cabinet, connecting to the Moen filter.
As I mentioned previously, this system still needs to be pressure tested.
Finally for today's posting, the plywood sides have been rough-cut. The profile and the door/window cutouts will be trimmed with a router once the plywood has been permanently installed.
The previous post showed the re-fitting of the inner layer of insulation on the sides. The past two days I have been cutting and fitting the two layers for the front/top. At this time I have only fitted out bays where no wiring exists. Sean wishes to keep all bays with wiring free until the electrical work is finalized.
It has been hot. Damned hot for Connecticut. Working on the top of the trailer under the tent, which retains heat up high, is, well, hot. Still, I've managed to fill in all the bays I can, except for a few at the lower front which are small, and will use leftover pieces from the balance of the work.
Today I mounted the galley counter edge rail. No biggie, but it was awaiting Sean's "all clear" for the electrical and plumbing work in the galley.
Meanwhile, I had used 3M painter's tape (blue) to mask the cooler drawer front and the stove drawer front while finishing the balance of the drawers. Unexpectedly, when I peeled the tape, the adhesive had reacted with the Deft lacquer I had used to finish the parts I wanted to protect. The result was a sticky surface. I tried using paint thinner to remove the sticky, but it unfortunately reacted with the lacquer.
So, today I used a chisel to scrape most of the sticky mess off, then used 150 grit sandpaper to ball up the balance, then 220 grit paper to sand the surface smooth again. I had to reapply sanding sealer to these surfaces, as most of them had been taken down to bare wood.
No pictures today, just narrative.
Tomorrow I plan to sand the surfaces where I applied sanding sealer today and get one or two coats of lacquer applied. Then, we plan to start fitting the plywood sides - cutting the sheets to profile plus a half-inch or so, such that when the electrical work is complete we can fit the outer layer of insulation and encase the entire trailer in the plywood sheath.
When the (re)finish on the drawers is complete, I can do the final installation and fitting.
Since my last post on the teardrop a lot has occurred, but the visual progress has been lacking. Here is an update:
To review, when we mounted the original gas springs we had correctly chosen a pair of 150# springs. However, both the struts themselves and the mounting hardware proved incapable of supporting the load. So we had a local welder cut some 1/4" stainless steel mounting plates, ordered some 5/16x18 ball studs for attaching the struts, and ordered a pair of much heavier-duty 150# gas springs.
New Struts: ASR/Raymond part number GSNI-3000-150.
This is the port side anchor inside the galley:
The oak block spaces the connection point out to match the point on the hatch itself. The stainless plate is through-bolted to the trailer side; the cavity in this area has been built out solid to distribute the stresses.
Below is the hatch attachment:
This plate bolts through the side of the hatch - the laminated oak rib, and lowers the pivot point below the rib.
These struts have significantly beefier rods than the previous version. If you have a need for real heavy-duty struts, do see the ASR/Raymond products. Their cost is maybe 40% higher, but well worth it, and, since these struts cost under $30 each, cost is not a big issue.
Today I started replacing the foam insulation in the sides now that almost all of the work we needed to do where the insulation was either in the way or would have to be refit is complete.
This shot highlights all the electrical wiring that is running through the walls. Visible above is an AC run from the front to an outlet inside the main cabin under the shelves, and on to an outlet inside the galley. Also above is a run for the clearance markers, and a pigtail for the light over the door.
The main DC circuitry is on the other side and is much busier.
Also since the last post Sean has nearly completed the electrical work. A few loose ends (literally) remain, but the bulk of the system has been tested for proper function. The lights inside the cabin are mounted, the side-mount fan is mounted, the outlets inside the cabin are in place and wired, the speaker wires are routed and pulled, the lights under the hatch are mounted, and the pump is wired.
The balance of the pluming is almost complete. The tank is positioned and provisioned with an outfeed and drain, as well as a fill pipe. The outfeed passes through a screen to the on-demand pump which then feeds a Moen water filtration system. The sink is set and the drain is in place. What remains is to mount the faucet and test the system.
I have been applying finish to the doors and drawers for under the galley and the galley counter edge. As soon as the electrical and plumbing under the hatch are complete I will install the counter edge, permanently mount and adjust the other components and mount the closure hardware. I will also complete the finishing process of the galley walls and install a rail that will be mounted on top of the cabinets.
Tomorrow though I am scheduled to start insulating the roof. And, with any luck, the Filon covering will arrive.
The days have been very warm and humid; today was brutally hot but only slightly less humid. That limits work time as the environment under the tent can be much warmer, even though it is well ventilated. Today my eyes were burning from the perspiration from my brow.
At Hammonasset Beach State Park in Connecticut there has been a nesting pair of Boat-tailed Grackles this summer. Their clutch has hatched but not yet fledged, providing the opportunity to observe the birds feeding the chicks.
We have plenty of Common Grackles in the area, but these Boat-tailed are very uncommon.
The male was content to hang around in a nearby tree and preen himself ...
... while the female was busily feeding the young. Here she flew down to a watering place to quench her thirst inbetween runs for dragonflies, providing one of the only opportunities to capture her.
It should be noted that the male also feeds the young, but apparently this morning it was her shift.
The Marsh Wrens are finally building their nests and singing for mates. This one has built two nests that I can see; it is not unusual for them to build two or more.
If you look carefully at the center of the photo below you will see a ball of brown Spartina leaves woven into and around live Spartina. This is the nest. (You may need to click on the photo to view it in a larger format.)
That ball is about a foot in diameter. Here is the industrious little fellow that built it:
This Glossy Ibis was one of several feeding in the marsh, but the only one that refused to be spooked by my presence.
I believe I've posted one or more photos of Osprey sitting on this sign before - perhaps even of this bird - but there he was again today, posing for his portrait.
As a reminder - you can click on any photograph and view a "slide show" of the photos in any given post in larger format. With the bird shots, I recommend that method.
